Montrealers take their smoked meat seriously. Never having been a fan myself (too much meat for my taste, at half a pound of brisket per sandwich), it took a legend to convert me; Schwartz's Deli, an iconic Montreal hole-in-the-wall serving up heart attacks on a plate. Ask any Montrealer worth their salt where to get the best smoked meat in the city, the answer will almost unanimously be Schwartz's. The restaurant has stood in the same place for almost 90 years (86 to be exact) and uses the same spice rub recipe as the day it first opened its doors. Briskets are marinated for 10 days, smoked for 8 hours then steamed for up to 4 hours before being sliced up and stacked between pieces of rye bread and mustard. 11 days to make a sandwich that (in my experience) will last no more than 10 minutes on a plate before being completely devoured.
The restaurant is small and line-ups are inevitable, especially for lunch, weekends, any day in summer or with somewhat nice weather - basically any time, so cross your fingers and be prepared to wait (up to an hour on a busy day, even for take-out, the line stretches around the block). If you're like me, and refuse to wait in lines, come during off hours or off season (opening and closing hours are good times, as well as the months of January, February and March).
The menu is simple - smoked meat. Get a steak, or even liver if you're daring, but don't ask for a cold cut sandwich unless you want your waiter to spend 10 minutes trying to convince you otherwise. Believe me if you won't believe him - smoked meat is what you're there for. Tender, savory and filling, it's a taste you can't find anywhere else and the smell of the restaurant alone is enough to make you want to move into one of the industrial steamers behind the counter.
A word of warning - eat quickly. Turnover is fast-paced and the waiters won't thank you for moving in at a table for six during peak hours. Also keep in mind that the restaurant accepts cash only, so come strapped beforehand.
The service gets a bad rap, but in my experience, you get what you give. And what you should give is a big smile and a good tip - the food is excellent and the staff has a rough job in an absolute madhouse, believe me, they deserve it. Good customers are always welcomed back like family.
Schwartz's Deli
514-842-4813
3895 Boulevard Saint-Laurent
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